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The early ones definately have better rear travel compared to the Gen 3 so it keeps the wheel on the ground more often on very rough rocky ground. Plus with a rough body I am not as hesitant when driving it, not the end of the world if the paint get marked.

I have had this car for nearly 2 years. Purchased with a blown engine and rough paintwork but otherwise original it was a bargain for $1000. I drove it standard for a while but in August 2012 I added the lift etc to make it more practical. It has recently undergone a Gearbox swap to dual range with ...

Will get some pics sorted soon, was waiting to get the car looking more complete but have just been driving it. Due to a slashed tyre have miss matched rims at the moment.

I have fitted an early Foz box to my Legacy GT and find the Low Range very similar to the 3.9 Lib box I had previously with the L low in it. I think the 4.11 diff helps to compensate. I have teamed it up with a DCCD centre diff so makes a great combo off road with the LSD rear.

My Coupe will live again. One of my son's wants it as his first car. As he has just turned 14 I have a while to wait. He will help with refitting the EJ22 etc and will want it low, as per my second pic.

Here is a pic of mine. Still have it but currently not running. Had EJ22, 3.9 Liberty Box etc.
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And this was when I had it at normal height. Great little cars.
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Has been returned to standard and sold. All the good bits are now in a Gen 1 Legacy GT. Will have a few pics of this one up soon.

The surging can often be due to a clogged fuel filter, not the one in the engine bay but the one under the tray which is often forgotten.

The BFG's are good, they will last a long time due to hard compound which means they are not the best on wet bitumen but are great off road. I had the 215/70/16 size on a 3 inch lifted lib without issues. I would get them again.

I got some from Subaru around 4 years ago, still had them in stock. I tried all the other rubber replacemnt places with no luck. they were reasonably prices from the factory.

Lift kit extensions will make the problem worse as they extend the shock, either a longer travel stnadard length shock or one slightly shorter would be better.

You change the rear ride height with the car jacked up and there is then no pressure on the bolt. As for lowering these the main limitation will be the length of the rear shock. I have a 4wd rear in an MY coupe so there are no bump stops. With the torsion bars wound right down the rear shocks bottom...

They are earth switching so you need to connect the earth wire for your relay to the earth wire on the headlight itself not the body of the car. Hope that makes sense.

I have the box you describe and it is now behind an H6 in an Outback. I used to have it behind an Ej20t running a VF28 etc etc. All will be fine as long as you drive sensibly. I stripped teeth off second gear by towing a trailer that was too heavy, similarly if you launch too hard you would damage t...

The lift was from Dave (SubiwanKenobi) via Ausubaru here. I don't think Crossbread do a lift for Gen 3. It is 2 inch lift with 3 inch strut tops. I wouldn't bother with just a strut lift, best to do the job properly. I haven't had any dramas with the car at all. The rear LSD was binding up so added ...

and look who a post like this brings out of the woodwork - Ian from Lonny! Still using your old manuals - they just have had a new purpose in that they have pics of Vortices in them. Good to hear, were they the complete factory L series ones in big blue folders? Yes Im am still playing the subi gam...

At social gatherings people you haven't seen for a few years ask you "are you still into playing with your Subaru's" or "what Subaru have you in bits in the shed at the moment"

Yes it is working well, offroad it has heaps of traction even at half lock and is very much locked at full. I have mostly had it on uneven rocky loose ground when the wheels often leave the ground but with the rear LSD it keeps going without a drama. I would definately recomend it as a mod if you wa...

A someone else has allready said, you must have a diff with internal circlips. Put the spring pin back in the hole in the stub and use a claw hammer to sharply pry the stub outwards using the pin for leverage against the side of the diff. The Stub will pop out allowing you to then remove the diff ce...

You don't need the dccd housing at all. The dccd centre will go into a non-dccd housing - it just needs a hole drilled in the top of the housing to allow the controller wires to feed through. There is one other thing you have to modify internally but I'm not sure what it is but it is not hard (this...